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Top 3 Pool Pump Problems

Top 5 Pool Pump Problems Pool pump troubleshooting
by Rob Cox, June 8,  2011
Top 3 Pool Pump Troubleshooting Tips

 

hayward powerflo pumps, starting at $179


What's better than Top 5 pool pump problems? Top 3 pool pump problems, of course! With nearly 10 million pool pumps operating in the U.S., there's gonna be some problems, the fewer the better.

The workhorse of the equipment pad, pool pumps are built for "continuous duty" - 24 hours per day, at 3400 rpm. But this also makes them more prone to problems - and if you're not pumping, you're not filtering. That's bad.

Modern pool pump designs have created more efficient pumps, provide much higher flowrates at a lower horsepower. Pool pump troubleshooting methods, however - have not changed. Here's three typical swimming pool pump problem areas and solutions.

 

1. Pool pump Leaks

Pool Pumps can leak in two ways, they can leak air, or draw air into the pump basket, on the suction side of the pump and they can leak water on the pressure side of the pump. Anything before the impeller is considered the suction side, your pool water is under a vacuum, as it is pulled into the pump. After the impeller, the water is pushed under a pressure.

On the vacuum side of the impeller (In front of it) common pool pump air leak sources are:

  • The threaded pvc fitting; the MTA or Male threaded adapter, is not tight or sealed properly or shrunk from heat.
  • The drain plugs are loose or missing thread sealant, or in some pumps, o-rings.
  • The pump lid is loose or cracked or the o-ring is dry rotted or cracked or needing lubricant like Magic Lube.
  • The piping or valves in front of the pump (skimmer, main drain) are cracked, loose or o-rings are missing or bad.

On the pressure side of the impeller (after it) common pool pump water leak sources are:

  • The threaded fitting, called the MTA or Male threaded adapter, is not tight or sealed or has shrunk from heat.
  • The shaft seal is worn, loose or cracked, or on old brass pumps, the stub shaft o-ring is worn or missing.
  • The volute or seal plate o-ring is loose, mis-aligned or needs lube and/or volute clamp or bolts are loose.
  • The impeller housing or body is cracked, perhaps on the bottom, freeze damage or water hammer effect.

 

2. Pool Pump won't Start

  • If the pump hums: Incorrect voltage (110v vs 220v) or bad capacitor, or jammed impeller.
  • If the pump makes no noise: Bad breaker, no power, loose wire connections, bad switch or timeclock.
  • If the pump starts but trips breaker: Bad breaker, loose wires, broken or touching wires, bad motor.
  • If the pump runs, overheats and shuts off, turns back on again: Broken Fan, clogged vents, bad motor.

 

3. Pool Pump not pumping

  • Air Leaks on suction side (see above).
  • Clogged pump basket or skimmer baskets.
  • Clogged pipes, valves before the pump, or clogged impeller.
  • Dirty pool filter, clog, obstruction or closed valves after the pump.
  • Broken impeller, missing diffuser or diffuser o-ring.

 

 Pool Pump troubleshooting involves using your 5 senses. There are more pool pump problems that aren't mentioned here, but this covers most of them. Add below any questions or comments on this topic to add to the pump problem knowledgebase!

 

 

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Pool Problems
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Posted 1/11/2013 10:08:10 AM by Anonymous    Reply
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pool pump wont start
Posted 10/20/2012 10:52:11 PM by Anonymous    Reply
My pool pump wont start and makes no noise. I see the gears turning on the "time clock". Any suggestions? Pool tech says new motor. I am very skeptical. I replaced capacitor because old one had black stuff coming from it. Could the new one be bad? Could it be something else?

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high water table, can I save this pool?
Posted 6/11/2011 2:05:26 PM by Anonymous    Reply
I have a 5 year old 10 x 40 ft vinyl lap pool 4.5 feet at the deepest. Suffice to say that last year the liner floated and tore. When the liner was removed, the vermiculite was in poor shape and there is evidence of severe water damage. The pool is on the edge of a swamp and the water table has risen significantly over the past year. The pool was initially built up above the water table and a well-point put in. Now I have added 2 sump crocks and they continue to try to drain the swamp When the pool bed is pumped dry, 18-24 inches of water reaccumulates over 5-7 days. One company tells me this is not fixable without pulling out the pool and elevating it another 3 feet. Can this pool be saved without completely gutting it and rebuilding it on a higher plane?

Anonymous 6/11/2011 3:09:18 PM    Reply
Not without intensive ground layer grading and water channeling. that can be an expensive process. An option may be to install a new pool inside the shell of the old pool, either concrete or fiberglass. This is almost as much as building a new pool, however.
Treatment of Black Algae in Pools
Posted 6/11/2011 7:58:09 AM by rob    Reply
http://blog.poolcenter.com/article.aspx?articleid=6138

pump operation
Posted 6/9/2011 7:27:12 AM by Anonymous    Reply
Is it required to run the pump 24/7 for the best filtering and cleaning? Do we run it only when needed?

rob 6/11/2011 7:53:27 AM    Reply
Best to not run 24/7 - from a "green" standpoint, and for longevity of the motor. Probably overkill, esp. if your filter is properly sized. Most pools, IMHO, need only 12-18hrs per day to remain clean, clear and sanitary
Pool Algae
Posted 6/8/2011 4:26:00 PM by Anonymous    Reply
My pool seem to have developed an algae problem. There are little black spots attaching themselves to to liner of the pool. I think they are algae. I have the Frog System. I have changed the mineral container, put in 2 bottles of algeacide, I also have shocked the pool a copuple of times. My pool is inground, around 15,000 gallons and I run it for about 8 hours a day. Also my PH and Chlorine register low on the testing strip.

rob 6/11/2011 7:56:53 AM    Reply
I would run the filter longer, esp. while trying to fight off an algae bloom. Run 24/7 until clear, then back off. Keep chlorine level at 1-2ppm, and pH at 7.2-7.4. Black spots? could be black algae, this is a very difficult strain to get rid of. Try silver algaecide, and shock with 3 lbs of shock (do this several days apart, don't add at same time). Also important to remove as much of the algae heads as possible. Vacuum up, and remove from filter. Consider also changing the filter media (Sand or cartridge)to get the spores completely out of the system after you treat agressively.
 
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